Days 4 and 5: Dettifoss and Selfoss waterfalls, Hverir geothermal area, Husavik and Akureyri

Day 4: Heading north and a walk around Husavik

The fourth day was mostly spent on the road. Due to time constraints, we had to skip the eastern fjords (a perfect excuse to go back!). So we headed straight north, heading to Husavik, but making several spectacular stops along the way.

The first important stop was at the Dettifoss and Selfoss waterfalls, which could not be missed on the itinerary. Dettifoss impresses with its power, considered the most powerful waterfall in Europe. For its part, Selfoss, although smaller, has a special charm with its semicircular shape surrounded by basaltic columns. Both are a demonstration of the raw power of nature.

Then we continued on to Hverir, a geothermal area that looks like it came straight from another planet. Here, the ground is a deep reddish colour and is filled with steaming fumaroles and geysers. The sulphurous, rotten egg-like smell is hard to ignore, but the visual experience more than makes up for it. It’s like walking on Mars, a unique landscape that you don’t see every day.

Just a few minutes from Hverir, we made a short visit to the Grjótagjá cave, known for being the setting of an iconic scene from Game of Thrones. Although it is partially flooded and cannot be entered, it is a very picturesque place and a good point for fans of the series.

In the afternoon, after a quick lunch, we finally arrived at Husavik, a charming coastal town known as the whale watching capital of Iceland. We took advantage of the time to walk around and explore the place a bit. It’s small, but it has a peaceful atmosphere that makes it special, perfect for relaxing after a long day of travel.

With that, we closed a day full of spectacular landscapes, heading north.

Day 5: Elusive whales and a quiet day in Akureyri

The day started with a whale watching excursion in Husavik Bay, something we were really looking forward to. However, the sea was not on our side: the waves were rough, and I ended up quite seasick. We also didn’t manage to see any whales. It was a somewhat frustrating experience, although the company offered us a repeat trip at another time. Unfortunately, our tight schedule did not allow us to take advantage of the offer.

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After the excursion, we got in the car and headed towards Akureyri, Iceland’s “northern capital”. On the way we stopped at Godafoss, a spectacular waterfall known as the “Waterfall of the Gods”. Its semicircular shape and powerfully falling water make it one of the most beautiful in the country.

Continuing towards Akureyri, we cross the Vadlaheidi tunnel, which is a toll road. An important note: the toll must be paid within the next 24 hours, or the car rental company will charge you double for “administration fees”. Better to avoid that surprise.

We arrived in Akureyri at midday, just in time for a quick bite to eat. We opted for a hot dog stand, an Icelandic classic that never disappoints. Then, we took advantage of the afternoon to explore the city at a leisurely pace.

First we visited the Lystigardur Akureyrar botanical garden, a peaceful place full of surprising vegetation for being so close to the Arctic. Afterwards, we couldn’t resist trying the ice cream at Brynja, a very popular ice cream shop in Iceland. To finish, we took a walk along the seafront, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere of the city before returning to the hotel.

It was a quieter day, perfect for recharging our batteries after all the hustle and bustle. Although the whale watching didn’t go as we had hoped, Akureyri managed to balance the scales with its charm.


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